jut703

A little OP, While the straight-line performance effects of altering CoG can easily be adjusted with Acceleration, Inertia and Drag, it also makes the steering harder, as if the Force Feedback was increased. Editing Steering Response doesn't soften it. :(

Tested it, and yep it really is reversed. Something to note for TDUPE3 I guess. :)

Hey gksdlqq, seeing as you've released a new mod (Saleen), I just wanna ask, have you moved on from editing this? Hopefully not, I'm really hanging on to that spoiler and window bug fix :P

Venom, in all honesty, gksdlqq makes better mods than others you've praised. I don't get what you're complaining about. gksdlqq, good job again! :D

The throatyness is there, it's just that it doesn't have the same bass and deep sound as that of the C63. Hopefully there'd be a deeper sound soon.

I'd try out a dozen or so sounds before using the M5 sound on an E63. They are just two different beasts. The V10 is high pitched and this is growly. BTW there's a released sound for it already and even if it isn't perfect it's still more fitting than an M5 sound.

Dredgy, about the Torque Balance on the Performance tab, why is it that when I set it to 100, it appears as if all power is sent to the front wheels, and vice versa, if I set it to 0, it acts like a rear wheel drive car. Could it be that the settings are inverted? i.e. if i want a car that has a 40/60 power distribution ratio, I should put the tab at 40? In other words, is that partciular option determining how much power gets to the front wheels? Just curious, as I believe it's really important as it would require me to change settings for all my AWD cars if such is the case..

Great list Kurgan, hopefully you could do the new wave of mods. Most of them have weird IKs.

This is great quality. The pics don't do it justice, trying it out for myself right now and it's really nice :)

That's REALLY great news dude! :D thanks a lot :P

Thanks. I've been waiting for this for ages. :P BTW, if it's not much of a hassle, do you mind doing one with the standard spoiler? I believe it just looks way better with that :) Also, um, I found a bug. The rear window has transparent spots on it. I don't know if you still plan on editing this mod, but if you do, please deal with it. :D

Nice, I got scared that Tool831 has left the world of TDU modding with the (temporary) demise of TXPro. I must say, since the SL65, your mods increased noticeably in quality (Alfa, M5, this). More power Tool. Hopefully this gets released soon, somewhere. May your modding home, be it TXPro or TDUC, be peaceful and free from hackers and bashers.

Impressive Photoshop skills there dude. If 'shopped pics were allowed in POTW you'd be a frequent winner.

This, I believe, is the first affordable car I've seen to be converted from FM3. Granted that I don't really like the Forte Koup (bec. it's overpriced here and I'd get a Genesis Coupe anytime), I like this direction. I checked out your other mods in photomode, and by the looks of it, TDU:C has found some of its desperately needed new talent in you. Good job! I do have a minor nitpick though, and it's actually something most FM3 conversions have - an overly shiny exterior. I know it's not an impossible thing to overcome as I've seen works from a certain modder without the overly shiny exterior. I hope you don't get this the wrong way, your mod quality is great. But of course there's room for improvement. I must say though that I haven't tried the mods yet, as I'm not at home, but rest assured it's the first thing I do when I get home. Again, great job, and this speaks for all your mods. Hope you release more of them (especially that Gen Coupe normal version). And I really fancy that there's actually a competent Asian modder now. :P

Hey StarGT I know this is an old mod but perhaps you could make silver rims instead of gold?

I guess what I'd like most is a more detailed version of your tooltips. If they're too long for a pop-up tooltip, I wouldn't mind having a readme file or a separate tab that acts as a manual on it. I don't really know how this could be improved on but the car's CoG (x-axis) should be better labeled. I mean, adjusting it has nothing much to do with the car's weight distribution but rather alters grip, drag and acceleration all in one. Also, it'd be great if there's the option of using modded names instead of default names. Sometimes I forget which car I placed which mod. And I know this requires a bit of effort, but perhaps the default rim option can be arranged according to rim-wheel ratio? I mean like the user either has the option to have it alphabetically or smallest to biggest (i.e. Charger Super Bee to Chevrolet SSR). I don't really know much about the software code of TDUPE and which of these are TDU limited so pardon if the ideas are farfetched.

I think dmn's XFR is a great improvement. Certainly much better than the obviously-rushed assassin996 version, and IMHO almost as good as Tool's. Interior is definitely top notch and exterior is reminiscent of tool's older mods (around the era where one mod took around 3 hours for him to make).

Oh. Thanks Kurgan. So if I increase downforce on all my cars, the only difference I'll notice is the jumpiness? I've long hated the fact that going up and down bridges and other uneven roads causes my car to fly. As for damping. I've tried playing around with it but it doesn't seem to change how quickly the suspension reacts. Have you noticed any noticeable difference?

Thanks. Ok I just realized 100 is pushing it too much, around 60 is more realistic. It's just that there were times when I didn't notice it was dawn already as I was too busy figuring how it works. Perhaps 80% of the time was spent trying to figure out why I can't get the car to have the physics I want it to have.

I've been searching for quite a while now on a comprehensive guide explaining all the values available to be edited with TDUPE, and sadly there isn't one. So I've decided to try and make one. All info is based on my personal experience, as I've spent around a hundred hours or so tinkering with TDUPE. If there's something wrong in my descriptions, feel free to correct me. First off, I believe that everyone, or the majority at least, wants their physics to be as realistic as possible. So it's natural to gather as much specs as possible from the net (or whatever source) and input them for the desired car in TDUPE. Fields that fall into this nature that affect your car's performance/handling include: Weight Drive Type Engine Position Brake Horsepower Torque Rev Limit Gear Ratios Dimensions (length, width, height, wheelbase) Inputting proper values into these fields do not automatically give your car performance and handling similar to real life. Other fields are available to tweak the physics to replicate reality as closely as possible. I believe that sorting out physics is a two-pronged approach: first, you try and get its straight line performance correct, then focus on the car's unique handling characteristics. Straight Line Performance To guide me towards realism, I research real life statistics for the car, and try to make the TDU car perform similarly. Particularly I research about 0-60 mph/0-100 kph times and top speed, for these are pretty easy to measure with the built in chronograph. For example, an AE86 Trueno goes from 0-60 in about 8.5 seconds, and has a top speed of about 200 kph. Given this, I edit the following values accordingly, using trial and error until I get it to have accurate times. Acceleration - It's pretty straightforward, the higher the value, the quicker your car accelerates and vice versa. Setting this value too high just to achieve the acceleration required to meet the desired 0-60 time usually makes the car reach its top speed too quickly. Hence, other factors must be adjusted as well to give realistic acceleration times. Usual values range from 80-120. Drag - Basically it sets the car's achievable top speed. A higher value lowers top speed and conversely a lower one allows higher top speeds. Keep in mind that even if you have high drag, if your acceleration is too high, the car will still accelerate too quickly then just stop as if it was limited. So it's best to have a little harmony between the two. Oh, and one more thing, this value of drag DOES NOT equate to the real-life drag coefficient of cars. Trying to input real values will result in an econobox reaching 300 kph. Usual values range from 0.25-0.60. Torque Balance - Only applicable to 4WD vehicles, this doesn't seem to have as much effect as the previous two. Basically it just distributes power, though it doesn't have as much effect on traction as the Handling values, which are to be discussed later. Gearbox Inertia - This is a tricky one, yet it's particularly important especially in 0-60 acceleration. From my experience, a lower value of Gearbox Inertia makes the car rev up faster. Having a value too high makes it rev up more than what the traction and the engine can handle, resulting in excessive wheel spin and your car redlining even if it hasn't achieved its maximum speed for that gear. A value too low will result in the car climbing up the revs so slowly that acceleration is reduced (even if the value in "Acceleration" is high). Toying with this will allow you to have quick launch times yet proportional high-end acceleration. Values can range anywhere from 10-120. Engine Inertia - Another tricky one, I guess the best way to describe it is that the higher the value, the longer your revs are maintained. If Engine Inertia is set at a high value, the car takes longer to go down to idle after revving (as said by Dredgy in the tooltip as well). However, I've also noticed that a lower value allows for marginally quicker shifting in Manual and Automatic vehicles (though has no significant difference in Sequential/Semi-Auto). From the stock car physics I've observed, and from custom physics from others as well, this value is usually higher than Gearbox Inertia by around 10-50. However, I've encountered times wherein the only way to make the car behave properly was to make this lower than Gearbox Inertia. Usual values range from 15-150. Handling Unlike straight line performance, you can't just research a car's handling and find exact values to put in TDUPE and expect the car to behave similar to real life. This is a more subjective thing and it helps if you've driven the cars IRL. I have to admit I find editing straight line performance much easier, but I'll give this one a shot. I won't put usual values because it greatly depends on the car you're editing. A Lexus LS460 and a Nissan 350Z both have stock oversteer values of 100 yet it is obvious that the Lexus tends to understeer much, much ore than the 350Z. Suspension - As the tooltip says, the higher the value, the firmer the suspension. Of course, taut suspension usually gives superior handling, but there are just some cars (luxury cars for example), that shouldn't have very hard suspensions. Oversteer - A value too low will result in understeer, but having a high value does not cause the usual drift-inducing oversteer one would expect. Instead, when Oversteer is set at a high value, the car just becomes edgier in the sense that a merely having 1 tire on the side walk causes you to spin out of control. Grip - This is the missing value in the formula to induce oversteer. Keep it low enough so that the car breaks traction when pushed to its limits, yet high enough to ensure driveability. I find it just arcade-y and unrealistic if no matter what you do, and no matter how quickly you take a turn, your car just maintains grip. Steering Sharpness - From what I've tested, this is dependent on your oversteer value. If it's quite low compared to Oversteer, it results in even the simplest of flicks of the steering wheel inducing tail wag. However, if it's way too low, it just makes your car refuse to turn at all. A value a tad too high results in unrealistic precision. How much you set this depends on how fast you usually drive. If you're the all out racing type, this should be quite high as to have controllable steering at high speeds with the tradeoff that even at low speeds, a simple 30 degree turn of the steering wheel allows you to take a tight corner already. For cruisers like me, I prefer keeping it a wee bit lower to allow for great maneuverability when driving at normal city speeds at the expense of twitchy steering at high speeds. Braking - I guess this is a special factor, because TDU's braking physics just sucks. It sucks in the sense that a mere tap on the brake gives stopping power unacceptably near to when you mash the brakes full on. Hence, to have realistic braking in everyday conditions (where you don't usually step on the brakes all the way down), its best to lower whatever default braking value to what feels just right when you step on the pedal. Keep in mind though that while this feels just right in slow driving, once you try to do a 60-0 test with the chronograph, you'll see that your car stops around 5-10 meters longer than it should. Blame the physics engine. Suspension Length - Honestly I don't tinker with this much since I don't see much difference. Perhaps some kind soul can enlighten me as to how I can use this properly. Suspension Rate - It supposedly makes your car softer at lower values, but editing the Suspension value gives more significant results. Again another of the values I don't play with too much. Damping Rate - This is weird because the Suspension Rate above supposedly makes your Shock Absorbers softer or harder, and Damper is merely a synonym for shock absorbers. So I find this one redundant, and like the previous value, provides unnoticeable changes. Either I'm not keen enough or I'm using it incorrectly. Enlightenment would be greatly appreciated. Center of Gravity (X-Axis) - Oddly, this has the potential to affect your car in so many ways. A high value would actually give your car much more grip, yet in doing so it reduces the ability to accelerate at high speeds (as if it affected Drag value). It also makes your car have less body roll with higher values. Because of its encompassing nature, I usually avoid editing it unless the car is too unrealistic no matter how I edit the other settings. Keeping it unchanged allows most cars to still have realistic handling anyway. Handling - Oddly enough, this value does nothing to affect your handling. Downforce - I haven't encountered a scenario where I've had to edit this just to get the car to drive properly, so I wouldn't really know. Ride Height - While it's listed at Aesthetic Value, it actually affects your handling and straight-line performance as well. When this value is set high (as is required for SUV mods), the car has reduced grip resulting in wheel spin even at high gears (it feels as if you're hydroplaning). Furthermore, it also induces body roll to the car. The few times that I've had to change Center of Gravity settings was when I had Ride Height set too high and I had to offset it. So basically that's it. Armed with info on what those tools do, it is now possible to adjust them to your liking. There is however one very important note to keep in mind: If for example you have custom physics for car A. Using the exact same values for car B will most likely not result in identical behavior of cars A and B. This is because the values in each field are relative only to the specific car. Hence, a gear inertia of 50 might be appropriate for car A, but cause too much wheel spin for car B, ceteris paribus. It also applies in handling - a Grip value of 900 may be sufficient for car A but cause car B to spin out at every opportunity. What this means: If you are downloading custom physics for a particular mod, but have the mod installed in a slot that is not the slot for which the custom physics is intended, you will most likely not have the realistic behavior you desire. Oh, and one more thing. If you are making physics for a car that has higher rpm limit than what the car you are replacing has, the following occurs: the car will still rev to its limit, however, past the original car's rev limit, the revs will go up much slower and acceleration will greatly be decreased. For example, the Farboud has a rev limiter at 7500 rpm. However, replacing it with a Carrera GT mod and making realistic physics means that the rev limit will then be set at 8400 rpm (CGT's redline). Sadly, doing this will make 7500-8400 a very, very slow climb. Hence, it is most advisable to replace a car with a mod that has a redline less than or equal to the original car's redline. Or, another alternative which I find quite useful is getting the ratio of the max rpm hp and max torque hp to the redline, then lowering the redline to the original car's redline and adjusting the max torque and hp rpm accordingly (i.e. 8000 @ 8400 will become 7142 @ 7500). I hope I've been of help, and pardon me if I haven't had a full grasp of everything TDUPE offers, after all I'm still learning. Thanks to Dredgy for coming up with such a great tool, you've helped make TDU more realistic than ever. Thanks as well to all the modders out there, you guys continue to make TDU interesting. :thumbsup:

I realized you're spawning mods quicker and quicker now. I just have a suggestion, perhaps a little more quality in each mod? I mean, yes you're mods are nice, but they're like 85% nice, not 95-99% nice. The common flaw I noticed in your mods is that the exterior reflections are a bit off. It makes the cars look, uh, shiny. This is also apparent in your Mz3 and Q7 mod. I really wish you the best in your mods, and I hope you could improve quality, because I really like your car choices.

Interior Gauge Hey Tool, what about the interior gauge limit? i tried adjusting the hud.ini but the needle still "redlines" before the actual redline. :(