kalniel

Just drove past a cream Morgan Aero. What an object of beauty. :drool:

:eek2:

Actually if you buy the UK one it won't be - the small enter is only for american layouts.

They obviously need a bit more ventilation - you can see the pong rising off them already! ;)

Well the kink in the nose looks like someone's punched it ;) But the back-end looks amazing thanks to the pull-rod suspension. Nice touch, but bound to be horrendously unreliable :p

I think the idea of this thread is that we only post our very favourite photos, rather than lots, hence the 3 a day limit. Perhaps put them in the normal photo thread?

Motherboard manager, it reads and controls various sensors/voltages on your motherboard. I would recommend sticking with speedfan though, as MBM doesn't really do much extra. Aside from designing your case airflow (would need to know what it currently looks like) the only thing you can really do is either change the actual cooling on the components (new heatsink-fans) or underclock. If you don't need every last drop of power then even taking 10% off your GPU clocks/memory can make a huge difference to temperature.

Even the latest version of that, the A720is, which I use, is very hard to find as canon pulled it to stop it competing with their high end compacts. There's a great ultra-small camera group review here: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/Q408slimgroup/ The winners were the Canon SD 790 IS and Panasonic DMC-FX37 but it's worth reading the full review because they tell you a lot about the cameras.

He shoots lasers from his eyes? Wow :p

How much do they come to together?

If you don't like the curve, that Logitech S520 bundle looks good. Another one is the LX710 bundle - keyboard is usual thickness unfortunately, but you get a nicer mouse and media keys: http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Logitech-Desktop-LX-710-Laser-Cordless-Keyboard-USB-1-20-1000dpi-Laser-Mouse-Silver-UK-Retail

Do you mind slightly curved keyboards? Microsoft do a great thin wireless keyboard and mouse combi called Desktop 6000 - usually about £37, but the keyboard has a small 'natural' curve that's meant to make typing easier:

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Tick the Track IR box. This will lock your view without turn to apex.

Well to be honest it is a bit noobish compared to L4D, TF2 or CS:S ;)

Go start->run and type in 'dxdiag'.

But you didn't include mine, even though it followed the rules precisely :( :p

Important: flash setting is nothing to do with EV. This is just the strength of the flash, and is designed to be adjusted by the user for distance (if the subject is close, then turn it down). Auto ISO is good for that camera - anything higher will result in a lot of noise. EV is used to tweak the camera's auto-exposure - by default the camera will guess the right exposure for whatever part of the screen you've told it to look at - by default this is whole scene but you can set it differently. Sometimes it will over or underexpose though, because it's not very good at guessing. If you find your images often overexposed then set -ve EV to tell the camera you want to expose less than it thinks is correct. This is usually appropriate for things like sunsets. Likewise things like snow are naturally going to result in a bright screen, so your camera will wrongly underexpose, so you set a +ve EV to compensate. With your camera you adjust EV with a separate button (looks like a rectangle made up of a dark and light triangle with a + and - sign). My advice would be leave ISO on Auto - this will keep it between 80 and 200, the best range for the camera. If you half-press and it's indicating that it'd like to take a shot with too long an exposure (say anything longer than 1/30) then you have two choices: 1) Set the ISO higher yourself - this will result in bad noise though. 2) Use -ve EV to tell the camera to underexpose the scene. This might produce a darker image than you'd like, but at least it won't be blurry - you can then brighten the image a bit in your image editing program. My other advice is to change the evaluation from 'whole scene' to 'centre weighted average' - this concentrates the camera on what you're pointing it at, rather than worrying about the corners, so you're more likely to get the exposure of the car correct and don't worry about having too bright or dark a background.

Maybe, though we might have timezone problems :p

Episode 2 - finally getting around to finishing some of my steam games :p Did portal the other day, Peggle is mostly done, and I'm on the final boss for PuzzleQuest :p

Heh I remember some people being like that in the states when I worked there. I made a point of squeezing my battered little golf into the remains of the second bay, and funnily enough they stopped doing it after that :p

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Then use gimp or irfanview or picassa or any of the other free ones.

Ahh.. see I have FS2000 pro, which came with Concorde included proper. That version isn't hard to fly at all - it's a wonderfully over-engineered plane so despite the size it actually feels like a much smaller plane - nimble, powerful.. all the things you don't expect!