RedCarDriver

Aside from / in addition to all of the things other people have said, do this to make sure it works: 1. Download 1.10.2 or 1.11, depending on which one you want. 2. Extract it to a folder where you can find it. This does NOT have to be the TDU install directory! 3. Right-click on the .exe file and set it to run as administrator, if you have Vista. 4. Run the tool. Click File > Settings, and set your TDU install directory field to the same directory you installed the game to. It should work now - if it doesn't, well, listen to everyone else's advice. :)

Yes, that too, but I figured that it was implied by "original disk". On that note, though, make sure your disk is legal - even if you bought it from someone, you may have bought it from someone who sold you a cracked version. Your location says you're in the US, so I find that unlikely.

So that you can drive on the left? Just drive on the left anyway and ignore the traffic! :P If you invert your LCD driver board, the text will show backwards, making the game very difficult to play. And, yes, that's what I meant by force-feedback - in general, you're likely to break something. In short, unless you have a way of reprogramming the traffic, it's more trouble than it's worth and likely to cause hardware damage. ;) Alternatively, you can use a no-traffic hack, play offline, and drive on the left side of the road anyway.

This is going to sound obvious, but check your audio settings. Perhaps you have "Master" muted or turned down. Also, make sure that your sound card is compatible and set to the correct settings.

Clean your disc (carefully!), and uninstall the game, then reinstall - perhaps one of the track files was corrupted or incompletely copied while installing. As far as your save game telling you that you need to create a new game, go into your save game directory (My Documents / Test Drive Unlimited / *name of savegame*) and delete the "PlayerSave" directory. Rename "PlayerSave2" to "PlayerSave". This trick ONLY works if you haven't clicked "New Game" yet!

I don't know about that link - it appears to be a link to some sort of crack, and since those kinds of websites tend to be dangerous, I'm not going to click it. You're in Romania? Best way to get a copy, then, is to buy a copy online - if you can use Amazon.com or a similar web site, it may be worthwhile to look for a copy there. If you can't find a copy at Amazon or any other online retailers, your only real options are: - Look for it used somewhere like eBay.com Make sure the seller tells you the CD key and the online account for the game, though - without these, you will not be able to play online. - Get the game through digital download. I believe Atari's digital download website is known as Metaboli or something similar. I hope this helps. :)

Also, uninstall TDU, remove SecuROM, reinstall using the original disk, delete Radial.CDB (use search to find it) and the CDkey file in the same folder as the Radial, and then run the game. As far as uninstalling Dae... what's-it, if you use Regedit you may have more luck in removing that kind of thing. I don't know the specifics of removing a Ring0 program, other than that it's difficult.

Out of curiousity, is there any specific reason you're interested in doing this? I can't think of any reason to want to do this :confused: To be honest, I think you could possibly calibrate it to go backwards, but funny things may happen. You may be able to switch some wires around on the potentiometer (sp?) in the wheel if you take it apart, but then Force Feedback may do very strange things and you may end up breaking something. In short, bad idea unless you have a good reason to do so.

I currently use the US version but it shows up as UK date format ("12/31/2009"). This is fine by me, because I prefer the date format specified as being the UK date format and the clock is still 12-hour. Thanks! :D

Found TDU-C when I was looking for more information on the original Veyron mod by BasBas. Back then everyone thought BasBas was pulling some kind of hoax on them - no one thinks that now :lol: I decided to join later, when I had a couple of small sound mods and similar mods I wanted to post, and I figured I had lurked for long enough that it would have been lame of me not to join. That was on the list of the more awesome decisions I've made in my life. :thumbsup:

lol To make it more difficult, play in Hardcore Mode, perhaps. Also, people in online races tend to be more difficult to race against, but they aren't always available. Or your could try driving backwards. :P

Not possible without .EXE hacks (which aren't do-able anyway and are considered cheating) - you'd have to keep track of it in your head. "Minimum average speed needed" is pretty easy - divide miles by number of minutes and multiply by 60. If you're going 60mph, you need 1 minute to go 1 mile.

Wow, this looks great! Thanks for making this! :D +Rep :thumbsup: (Nevermind about the badges thing I mentioned before - you've got that sorted out now, I guess ;) )

Depends if you do bodyswapping or not. As in, it depends if you try to put both cars on the Murcielago Coupe. I'd recommend putting the LP640 and the Reventon on different cars - say, the LP640 on the Murcielago Coupe and the Reventon on the McLaren F1 GT or something - and then using the Mod Tools to change the brand and model. In short, it's a little complicated. :)

As a side note, if you mess up your DB.BNK to the point where you need a new one, use the version included in Patch 1.67D as a backup if you have that patch installed. It's always good to keep a copy of your unmodified DB.BNK in case something like this comes up - you can restore it from the backup, write down the values, put your modified one back, and copy the values back into the new BNK.

The GS450 can do upwards of 150 tuned anyway, so your results are not surprising. I dunno about the SSR though. My tuned Evo (LS600hL) still won't go past 145ish, and I don't ever remember taking it past 120 anyway (mostly because I had never tried).

So you're not releasing it on here yet we can talk about it with no problems... :oook: Okay then...! :P I'll take a look once I can find a download link! (but don't post a link for me, that's what Google is for and I can find it) EDIT: I tried the new version and it works great! Also, as far as I can tell, none of the new performance features have an unfair impact on gameplay, but I haven't tested ride height yet. (Gearbox doesn't impact top speed, so unfortunately my LS600hL-turned-EvoX still won't go past 140 :P )

Wait, 1.11 is out now? :confused: If it is, I missed it. And, if it is, thanks! :thumbsup: If not, though, I can wait ;)

Fixed. Apparently GeoCities links are case-sensitive... :confused:

Honda V-TEC Engine Sound RELEASED Honda VTEC I4 sound is done! :D Requires Magic Map. http://www.geocities.com/hkvideogamer/TypeR_audio.zip (Still posting stuff on my GeoCities page until I get a more reliable host.)

YES! W00t! *dances* I'll make sure to donate. I missed this place so much... we all did.

Yes. Fail indeed. *headdesk* My offer still stands on helping with the badge, though, if you can't use anything but a bump-map.

Thanks Djey. :) Personally, I couldn't care less about ride height, unless I was to actually increase the ride height (as in, wheels clipping through the body), which would decrease performance, right? lol. The only car I'd consider decreasing would be the A3, since it's as high as a monster truck as-is. Thanks for the update about the gearboxes though; in most cases, I'd actually be decreasing the 7 gears or so of a car like the Lexuses to 5 or 6.

Thanks :thumbsup: Finally, an IS-F. I've been wanting one of these for quite a while. I think I'll replace the SLK 55 AMG Performance Package, since, with the new patch, that car is separate from the regular SLK55. Also, I may be able to help you with the rear badge. I was able to come up with a good bump-map-only replacement for the badge when I had an IS F mod for the IS350.

Are you running under Vista? If so, make sure the program has administrator priveleges. More on-topic: as far as the performance-changing (and hence possibly bannable) planned new features, would it be possible to work in a sort of "counter-balance"? As in, new gears added through the gearbox-tool could not be taller in total than the original gear settings, and lowering the ride height would do something else to the car to balance it out? Just an idea, although I can see a few potential problems with such a thing if it were to be implemented.