Kurgan777

The car and rims are in the patchs folder, replace them manually, just make a backup of the originals first. I totally forgot about redoing the cams for this car, it'll be added to the list of the next set of cars to get done. EDIT: Cams done..... Viper SRT-10 Cockpit AC427 Cockpit_Back CLK DTM Hood Mustang GT Hood_Back F612 IK

IIRC those came from a 1969 Dodge Charger mod somewhere out there, not sure which one though.

The auto-installers don't always work, if they don't work, then install the car MANUALLY.

I just tried the new version and the exterior cameras are fine, but the cockpit cam is a bit different and the IK needs to be changed from what I listed, that will take a bit of adjustment. And the MP4-12C was a royal pain to find good cams for, I must have gone through at least 75 cams. None of the obvious "mid cams" would work, it seems like the car is set really far back so only the "long cams" had the right distance, stuff like the SLR, Firepower, GR-1, cams with the view set WAY back in the car. I still couldn't find a centered view other than the Alfa 8C, but with the sliders set in the middle, it seemed a bit high. I'll personally be using the 71'vette cam and live with the slight off-center. EDIT: Added 10 more cars, total is now 150 Audi R8 V10 FSI (newest version) Ferrari 599 GTB Fiorano Ferrari California Spyder (Tool) Ford GT 2006 Honda Civic SI 2006 Maserati Gran Turismo S McLaren MP4-12C Porsche 911 GT-1 Subaru WRX STI 2006 Toyota Supra RZ (Tsuka)

You could try setting the Center of Gravity to 1 (all the way back), softening the rear suspension, and raising the front ride height. This MIGHT make the front end raise up on launch, but I don't think TDU can do it.

There's a couple huge problems with doing something like that.... 1. Animations. If you tried to put it onto a bike slot it would try to lean in the corners, a leaning quad is not a good thing.... 2. Cameras, if you tried to put that thing onto a car slot, and use the bike cameras, you couldn't see anything, bike cameras show up just 1 inch from the ground in a car slot.

The link is doubled, just paste it into the URL bar and delete half of it.

Since there's not much video material online to get an accurate idea of what the car should sound like, I'd like to request that something be made at least temporarily to fit the car mod that's been done. The car has a 3.8 liter V8 with twin turbos, makes 600 horsepower, and revs to 9000 RPM. It should NOT sound like a Ferrari V8 just to keep things different, maybe something along the lines of the V8 in the Audi R8 but with some additional sounds. The turbo whine should be noticeable as well as having a blow-off valve sound, not a big BOV sound, just a small one on the off-throttle and downshifts. To keep it as realistic as TDU allows, the sound should run to 8500rpm.

It looks like it's down for all files right now, try it again later.

This car has been one of the more problematic cars to come up with cameras for, I must have gone through at least 50+ cockpit cams. The best cams I could find for centered seat sliders are . . . Audi TT Cockpit Alfa Brera Cockpit_Back Firebird Hood Merc SLR Hood_Back Ruf RK IK I did try the Ruf RK cockpit cam, but the only way it would work is if the seat sliders were all the way down and all the way back.

The one in your video could probably be done with a slight modification to the existing 512TR model, and a change to the Physics. But the "non-stealth" version of the Koenig Twin Turbo Testarossa would definitely need a new model.... http://chirleyamaya.com/photo_13.html

If there was a way to wash the cars it might be cool, but I don't like muddy Ferraris.....

No you can't change them yourself, this game or it's mods were never meant to be that exact, just turn the visible Speedometer ON in the game Display options and you'll be fine.

1. Start up TDUMT 1.14 2. Click the Vehicle Manager button. 3. Find the car you want to change and doubleclick it. 4. Now go to the Datasheet tab, and in the Manufacturing box click on the Change button. 5. Choose Manufacturer... from the list and a new list will pop up. 6. Highlight the one you want, and click the OK button in the lower right corner of the list. 7. Repeat for the Model Name and the Version Name if you want, then click the big Save button in the upper right corner of the program and you're done.

Definitely. The main problem is in TDU's sound engine, it doesn't take into account how different a car sounds from the inside and outside. Example, a Lotus Elise GT-1 sounds like this from the inside... But from the outside it sounds like this.... So if you're going for the more accurate "Inside-The-Car" sound, you've got the right one, but if you were going for the exterior sound, you might look for a good Ferrari V8 sound heavy on the bass, or what I use, fifo's Audi RS4 sound. It's a nice angry loud high-revving V8 :thumbsup:

The Elise GT-1 used a V8, not a 4 cylinder....

Vehicle Manager, then find the car you want to change, doubleclick it, then go to the Physics Tab, in the Gearbox section, select Sequential, click the Set button, then save.

You'll need either TDUPE 2.5 or TDUMT 1.14 to change the gearbox setting to Sequential.

If you really want a good DVD series to get car sounds from, look for the series called Victory By Design. They have several to choose from including Alfa-Romeo, Aston Martin, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, Maserati, and Porsche. Some of the video sections are on youtube, just not the whole things.

http://forum.turboduck.net/showthread.php?t=18277 Change the cams

TDUPE 2.5 Cornering Performance tab. Center of Gravity (X Axis) That's weight distribution front to rear, the higher the number, the more stable the car, the lower the number, the more unstable the car. Any number lower than 40 and the car will start to develop a side to side wobble from the slightest steering input, eventually the wobble turns into a full on drift, if you try to correct the drift with opposite lock, you just spin out and there's nothing you can do about it. For a mid engined car, the best balance is in the 46 to 48 range.

The front to rear weight distribution controls the "tail happy" part more than the grip does. If the number is too high (52 or higher) then the car becomes more stable and drifts less. If you go 60 or higher, the car will actually settle down out of a drift VERY fast, it will run laser straight. If the number is lower than 50, the back end is going to break out at will. If it's lower than 40, be prepared to control the car more than you really want to, a slight touch to the handbrake or even just letting off the gas, and the back end will break out sideways.

Added 9 more cars for a total of 140... Aston Martin DBS Bugatti EB-110 SS Facel Vega Facel II Ferrari 458 Italia Mazda MX-5 Miata Pagani Zonda F Pagani Zonda R Renault 11 Turbo Renault Laguna 3.0 V6 24v

Link works fine for me.

Tested some cameras, here's the best I could find...(seat position sliders set to MIDDLE for both options) Spyker C8 Laviolette Cockpit Dino Cockpit_Back Alpha GT Hood Alpha GT Hood_Back F430 IK Some other options for the Cockpit cam would be these.... Spyker C8 Spyder (just a few inches farther back than the Laviolette) Ruf RK Spyder Aston Martin DB4 EDIT: For those looking for a good texture to make a HUD with, check the attachment, I snagged that from a youtube video. The "glare" can be photoshopped out fairly easily, or it can be left in for a touch of realism.